The Mozambican Cotton and Oilseeds Institute (IAOM), the public entity responsible for promoting and developing the cotton value chain, presented at the Mozambique Fashion Forum 2025 – an event dedicated to innovation, sustainable fashion and creative entrepreneurship, taking place in Maputo since Monday, 1 December, and ending this Tuesday – the progress and challenges of community-based artisanal cotton processing initiatives in several producing provinces.
Ancha Ismail, Director of IAOM’s Central Services for Promotion of Value-Added Markets, explained that these initiatives stem from training programmes carried out under a memorandum of understanding with Ethiopia, a country recognised for its mastery in weaving. The training enabled Mozambican technicians to gain skills in artisanal testing, manufacturing mechanical looms, spinning and weaving, with additional support from the Fund for the Promotion of Agriculture, Industry and Trade (FPLAIC), which finances value-addition projects.
According to Ancha Ismail, the technicians returned to the country as national trainers and disseminated their knowledge in rural communities. In these areas, artisanal processing associations were established in the provinces of Cabo Delgado, Nampula and in the district of Cuamba, in Niassa. Each association received equipment, training and institutional support, strengthening local production.
IAOM played a decisive role by facilitating the installation of processing centres, guaranteeing raw materials, ensuring technical supervision, certifying training programmes and creating sustainable business models. The institution also reinforced partnerships with non-governmental organisations, textile companies and community associations, integrating agriculture, creativity and youth entrepreneurship into a single production cycle.
Over the years, these initiatives have received key support: in 2019, the Textile Revival Fund supported the creation of the first artisanal production lines; in 2020, the company Jean Ferreira de Santos provided equipment and management training; in 2021, the Netherlands Development Organisation reinforced youth entrepreneurship; and in 2023, the National Cotton Producers Forum created an association focused on community mobilisation. These contributions helped establish the foundations of the artisanal sector.
Fashion designer Isis Mbanga highlighted the impact of these efforts on the national fashion industry, stating that “Mozambican cotton has the potential to reach international markets if there is continuous investment in training and quality.” She added that community-based work “strengthens the country’s cultural identity and shows that ‘made in Mozambique’ can compete with established African brands.”
Women’s empowerment was also emphasised by Ancha Ismail, who highlighted the role of women in activities such as spinning, dyeing, cutting and sewing. These initiatives have enabled women to generate their own income, gain greater economic autonomy and participate more actively across the cotton production and commercialisation chain.
The economic impacts include local job creation, increased cotton value, growth of women’s microcredit, and the development of artisanal products that combine traditional techniques with contemporary design. However, the challenge of internationalising the products created by these communities persists, as does the need to expand brand reach and strengthen the artisanal “made in Mozambique” label.
Despite the progress, Ancha Ismail warned of persisting difficulties, such as access to finance, international certification, the need for more profitable markets and technological modernisation. Future priorities include positioning Mozambique within the global sustainable-fashion landscape, developing luxury women’s collections and consolidating the national “made in Mozambique” label as a benchmark of quality and cultural identity.
